Articulated spring

A steel spring, approximately 10 centimetres long and 1.5 centimetres wide, which is inserted into the hollow space of the frame and insole between the heel and the sole of the foot. The shape of the spring is adapted to the arch of the insole and gives the foot a stable support when walking and prevents the heel from wobbling.

Ashing/Fleshing

Is a leather manufacturing process in which the hair is removed from the raw hide by means of a chemical process. In the past, wood ash, which gives the process its name, was used, but nowadays calcium hydroxide and sodium sulphide are used. Liming also reduces the fat content of the hide. The softer a leather has to be, the longer it takes to limpet it.

B

Blanket
Refers to the leather skin ready to be tanned and cleaned.

Blucher

In this open lacing men's shoe, the two parts of the shoe that are laced are placed on the sides. The internationally used term Blucher refers to the German General Field Marshal Blücher, who first had the original model of this shoe made for his soldiers in the early 19th century.

Beading

As a base for the heel area or as a base for the outsole, a strip of leather 2 centimetres wide and 3 millimetres thick is nailed to the insole and the outsole. It serves to visually thicken the edge of the sole or to level out parts of the ground. This beading is fixed with wooden nails for hand-sewn shoes, while it is sewn on for hand-sewn shoes.

Back strap

A strap sewn onto the heel seam, which runs from the top edge of the upper to the cut edge of the gusset. It covers and reinforces the heel seam and also provides reinforcement for the heel part of the upper.

Brogue

Men's shoe with decorative holes in the edges of the upper and the applied parts of the upper. Available as "half-brogue" or "semi-brogue", "full-brogue" or "full-brogue longwing".

Broguing

Also called "Scottish perforation". Perforated decoration on the edges of the upper and the toes of the shoes.

Budapester

More robust than a full-brogue, but also rich in perforated decoration and with a butterfly toe and heel.

Back counter

This is a piece of leather reinforcement that is used at the rear junction between the lining and the outer upper. It serves to extend the heel of the shoe and thus keeps the foot in the shoe while guiding and supporting it during walking. It also helps to maintain the shape of the shoe in this area.

C

Contract tanning

Contract tanning is a method of processing leather, also known as vegetable tanning or vegetable tanning.

Chrome tanning

This is the most common process for tanning top leathers. Due to the use of chromium salts, chrome-tanned leather is extremely tear-resistant.

Closed lacing

The front part of the upper rests on the side parts, which limits the width of the opening of the side parts to be laced. This allows the shoe to be closed so precisely and elegantly that only the upper edge of the tongue is visible (Oxford).

F

Footbed

Also known as the insole. Is a removable, anatomical insole that helps regulate the climate of the shoe and support the arch of the foot. It consists simply of a layer of needle felt, but can also consist of a layer of leather and foam. Orthopaedic insoles are available in different thicknesses and can have a positive effect on comfort.

Frame

The supporting structure of the men's shoe is this strip of cowhide. It is on average 60 centimetres long and 3 centimetres wide. It holds together the upper, the insole and the sole. In hand-sewn or fleece shoes, it is sewn on the side, on the edge under the insole, so that the outsole can be attached. Inexpensive shoes often have a frame for decorative purposes only.

Fit

Refers to the fit of the shoe to the human foot. As people have different foot shapes, a perfect fit can only be achieved by custom manufacturing.

Foil cut

The basic cut of closed lacing shoes, in which the foil is placed on the sides of the upper.

Full Brogue

Men's shoe with decorative holes on the winged front (butterfly toe) and on the edges of the upper.

Full Brogue Longwing

A North American variation of the full brogue, with the butterfly toe extending from the front through the sides and heel seam to the back.

Forepart

Refers to the front part of the shoe. It can be composed of one or more parts.

G

Gemband

A plastic bar of approximately 2 x 4 millimetres thickness that is subsequently attached to the underside of the insole is called a gimbal. In hand-sewn men's shoes, the upper and the frame are sewn together at this point. Hand-sewn shoes, on the other hand, do not have a sole. The edge is made directly from the material of the insole, which is much more robust.

H

Hinge piece

The hinge piece consists of a hinge spring and its cover and is placed between the insole and the outsole. It extends from the middle of the heel to the beginning of the forefoot and serves both to maintain the shape of the shoe and to support the foot.

Insole

This is a layer of leather about 2.5 to 3.5 millimetres thick that runs from the toe of the shoe to the heel. It is where the foot lands and has a significant influence on the foot climate and wearing comfort. It is therefore important that the insole is made of high-quality vegetable-tanned cowhide.

J

Jousting

Carbonisation prepares the raw animal skin for the tanning process. This involves removing the hair from the hide by applying a highly alkaline lime solution.

L

Lyre perforation

Typical brogue hole pattern, in which two small holes are placed one above the other, following a single larger hole.

Language

This is the colloquial term for the leather tongue under the lacing, which protects the closure area from dirt and rubbing. It also cushions the back of the foot against the lacing.

Last

A last made of wood, plastic or metal that is inspired by and simulates the human foot in the manufacture of footwear. The entire shoe is built around the last. It determines the size, width, fit, comfort, heel height, proportions and appearance of the shoe.

Lace-up shoe

A classic and widely used type of men's shoe, which can be distinguished into three basic models according to the lacing: the Oxford, the Derby and the Blucher or Blücher.

Monk-Strap

A men's derby shoe with a strap that passes over the instep and closes laterally with either one or two buckles.

O

Outsole

The bottom layer of the sole of a man's shoe. It is about 5 millimetres thick for the elegant versions and is in direct contact with the ground. It is usually made of vegetable-tanned leather, which is particularly hard-wearing and waterproof. For cheap shoes, it can also be made of rubber, plastic or wood.

Overloading

In order to prevent the upper from expanding and to ensure a firm hold on both sides of the shoe, a strip about 4 centimetres wide is cut out of a piece of upper and placed in the upper between the upper and the lining and between the front and back. At the same time, the counter provides a smooth transition between the front and back of the shoe. The edges of the counter are therefore less visible under the upper.

Oxford

The epitome of the classic, elegant men's shoe, with a distinctive closed lacing and leaf cut.

Open lacing

The two parts of the upper to be laced together rest either laterally on the front part (derby) or on the side parts (blucher). This allows the lacing to be opened relatively wide, making it easier to get into the shoe.

P

Primer

The last layer applied to a leather surface. Also known as a varnish layer. It gives the leather protection and a final appearance. It is important to know the exact primer to choose the right shoe care product.

Pinching

A process in shoe manufacturing in which the edge of the upper is pulled over the last from the upper and lining and fixed to the underside of the insole by means of small metal nails. This gives the shoe its three-dimensional shape for the first time.

Q

Quarters

Another term for the side or rear parts of the shoe upper.

S

Slip-on sole

Is a soft leather covering over the insole. It must be wear, colour and perspiration resistant on the foot side. Its length depends on the shoe model and can cover the whole length, three quarters or only one quarter of the insole.

Softening

Operation of the tanning process. Raw hides are brought back to the slaughtered state by re-injecting the water removed during preservation, by placing or hanging them in pits, rotary drummers or reels with hot water. The process can take varying lengths of time. For example, it is common to spend 1 to 3 days in the pit, 16 to 18 hours in the barrel and only 2 to 3 hours for fresh products.

Sheet

The front part of the shoe upper construction, also called the vamp.

Swelling

An elastic material such as cork or felt is integrated into the gap between the insole and the midsole. It forms the ballooning and will later deform under the effect of heat and the weight of the wearer, thus creating an individual footbed. At the same time, it cushions the step and protects against heat and cold.

Semi-Brogue

Also known as a "half-brogue". A men's shoe with a perforated pattern on the right front only.

T

Tanning

This is the transformation of animal skins into a durable form of leather. Tannins are used to convert the protein fibres of the hides into leather fibres. There are four main tanning processes: vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, mineral tanning and fat tanning.

Tear lip

The tear lip can be either a cut that extends at an angle to half the thickness of the outsole material. This is placed on the sides and closed after sewing. Or it may be a leather edge which, after being cut from the insole material, is placed on the torn side and connected to the upper and frame by a one-step seam.

Upper

The constructive part of the shoe that covers the top of the foot and usually consists of several parts, including the outer upper (front, side and back parts), the inner upper (lining) and the middle upper (tongue, middle lining).

V

Vegetable tanning

Term for tanning with purely vegetable substances. It is usually used for lining leather, as it allows direct contact with the skin. Vegetable-tanned leather excludes allergic reactions in the wearer.

Veldtschoen

This is a type of sewn-in bottom with a frame, in which the lining is sewn without the upper, together with the frame, to the welt or insert lip. The upper is then placed on the frame and lined through it onto the midsole. A second seam connects the upper leather to the frame and the outsole. This type of construction ensures that the shoes are very robust, dimensionally stable and waterproof.

Walking heel / upper patch

The top leather layer of the heel, which is in direct contact with the ground, is called the walking heel, or upper heel. It is made of leather and often has a wear-resistant